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Ring Settings Guide: Bezel & Prong

Everything You Need to Know About Bezel Settings

Charlotte Bezel Ring
The Charlotte in Yellow gold with Emerald and Radiant Diamonds

The bezel setting is a bold and uncompromising choice for an engagement ring, turning heads wherever it is worn. This concise guide dishes on one of the oldest jewelry settings in the world, covering pros, cons and everything else the modern couple needs to know.

What is the bezel setting?

The bezel setting is a type of gemstone setting that surrounds and holds the center stone using a continuous band of metal. This setting, also known as a rubover, holds the gem with a projecting lip that overlaps the edges of the stone. Only the crown of a bezel-set gem is exposed.

History of the bezel setting

The bezel setting is one of the earliest settings for precious stones, with archaeological evidence of its use throughout history. Primitive examples of this simple setting involved creating a hole or slot for the stone in the metal and bending the metal over the edges of the stone.

Examples of bezel-set stones have been found in the jewelry of Ancient Egypt and the Roman and Byzantine empires.

Charlotte Oval Moissanite
The Charlotte with a 2 carat Oval Moissanite in White Gold

Types of bezel setting

Bezel setting engagement rings are versatile, with popular styles including:

  • Full bezel setting: The metal rim of the bezel setting completely wraps around the stone for a secure hold.
  • Partial bezel setting: The metal setting only partially surrounds the center stone, exposing more of the stone and allowing in light.
  • Split-bezel setting: The stone is set in an almost full bezel with section splits.
  • High-set bezel setting: The stone in the bezel setting is set high against the band to increase its prominence.
  • Low-profile bezel setting: The stone is set flush to the band of the engagement ring with the point of the stone within the ring, and the margins of the stone surrounded by the band.
  • Plain bezel setting: Plain bezel rings have an unadorned rim of metal surrounding the center stone.
  • Fancy bezel setting: Jewelers can further detail bezel engagement rings by adding micropavé, a halo, milgrain detailing, or side stones to accent the bezel-set center stone.
Pave Charlotte Ring
The Pave Charlotte with a 3 carat Round cut Diamond in Rose Gold

Bezel engagement rings

Bezel engagement rings are experiencing a revival in popularity. The simplicity of the bezel setting elegantly sets the center stone in clean lines for a unique, discrete look. It does a great job of protecting the center stone; perfect for dentists, artists, craftspeople, and anyone with an active lifestyle.

Perhaps most importantly, the bezel gives a ring a unique look no other setting can replicate. And in the case of Luxumoon's bezel rings, a row of dainty sidestones adds magnificent side-sparkle to the bezel metal strip.

Bezel Detail
The bezel setting is one of the earliest settings for precious stones.

The Bezel setting works with any diamond cut

Because the bezel setting is so simple, you can make it work with any diamond shape. The bezel design simply follows the outer edge of the stone. Choose a bezel setting for:

  • Round brilliant-cut diamonds
  • Marquise diamonds
  • Pear diamonds
  • Oval diamonds

Our master setters skillfully use a minimal amount of metal to display as much of the stone as possible. Luxumoon bezel engagement rings make the center stone appear larger than its carat size to observers.

Charlotte Emerald Cut
The Charlotte with a 3 carat Emerald cut Diamond in Yellow Gold

Pros of the bezel setting

  • A Protective Setting: The bezel setting beautifully frames your diamond while protecting it from impact. Unlike prongs, which expose much of the diamond, the continuous rim of metal in a bezel protects the stone at all times.
  • Perfect for an active lifestyle: Bezel settings keep a diamond in its place at all times. There is no risk of losing the center stone when you're training, working with your hands, or wearing gloves.
  • Fashionable: After thousands of years, the bezel setting is back in style. Jewelry designers have modernized bezel engagement rings with sleek and smooth lines.
  • Makes your stone appear larger: A rim of bright metal can make your center stone look bigger than it is. This means that you can use this setting to enhance the look of a smaller diamond.
  • Enjoy snag-free wear: Prominent prongs on other styles of engagement ring can snag on clothing. The low-profile, prong-free bezel engagement ring will keep your garments snag-free.
Charlotte Pear Cut
The Charlotte with a 3.5 carat Pear cut Diamond in White Gold

Cons of the bezel setting

Charlotte Rings
The Charlotte with a Radiant cut Diamond and The Charlotte with an Emerald cut Diamond
  • May have less sparkle: Because the diamond is enclosed in the setting, light can only enter into the gem from the front or crown. This means that a center stone in a bezel setting may not have the same gleam as a stone in a prong setting.
  • Can be bulky: While Luxumoon bezel rings are subtle with a thin rim, other retailers may offer bezel settings that feel bulky with a thick and unsightly rim.

Caring for your bezel engagement ring

Pave Charlotte Cushion
The Pave Charlotte with a 2 carat Cushion cut Diamond and The Mellany band

A bezel ring is easy to clean with confidence. Warm soapy water with a very mild detergent and a soft cloth is all you need to keep a bezel engagement ring looking its best. Take care of the metal by keeping your ring in a box lined with soft material to prevent scratching.

Conclusion

A bezel engagement ring is versatile and can be as refined or glamorous as your taste permits. It's a unique alternative to traditional prong settings.

Everything You Need to Know About Prong Settings

Prong Setting Examples
The Eleanor, Jasmine, Pave Kamellie in Yellow Gold and White Gold

When it comes to engagement rings, few design elements are as iconic as the prong setting. This timeless style lets the center stone shine with effortless elegance, drawing all eyes to its brilliance. Beloved for its classic beauty and ability to maximize sparkle, the prong setting is a favorite across a range of styles, from sleek solitaires to radiant halos.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about prong settings: the different styles, their unique benefits, and how they pair beautifully with a variety of diamond shapes.

What Is a Prong Setting?

Marquise Cut Rings
The Nova with a 3 carat Marquise cut Diamond and The Lindsey

With a prong setting, small metal claws hold the center stone securely in place. These prongs grip the diamond from different angles, usually at the corners or sides, raising it slightly above the band. This lifted position allows maximum light to hit the stone, amplifying its sparkle and brilliance.

Prong engagement rings are beloved for their versatility. This setting complements a wide range of styles, from classic to contemporary. They come in a variety of shapes to accommodate varying needs and preferences.

  • Pointed Prongs: Also known as claw prongs, grip the diamond with discreet coverage. They allow more light to pass through the stone, enhancing its sparkle while keeping the setting chic and refined.
Lindsey Round Rings
The Lindsey with a 2 carat Round cut Diamond in Yellow and White Gold
  • Rounded Prongs: Have a soft, bead-like appearance, creating a delicate, feminine frame around your center stone.
  • Flat Prongs: Also known as tab prongs, feature a squared-off tip that sits flush against the diamond. This low-profile design boosts stability and reduces snagging.
  • V-Shaped Prongs: Specially designed to protect the pointed ends of more angular diamond shapes like Marquise, pear, and princess cuts.
Various Prong Rings
The Textured Twig, The Twig, and The Three Stone Twig
  • Tulip Prongs: Form a basket-like design around the diamond, resembling the elegant shape of a blooming flower.
  • Shared Prongs: Used in bands featuring multiple diamonds. Adjacent diamonds share one prong between them, creating an uninterrupted line of sparkle.
  • Double Prongs: Feature two slender prongs placed closely together at each corner. They add visual interest and secure the diamond, ideal for larger stones.
Sofia and Celine
The Sofia and The Celine with 2 carat Oval cut Diamonds

Benefits of Prong Settings

There’s a reason prong settings have stood the test of time. They offer a mix of beauty, brilliance, and practicality. The biggest advantage is the way prongs allow light to enter the diamond from all angles. With minimal metal obstructing the stone, the result is a radiant, fiery sparkle.

Large Carat Rings
The Liv, Lindsey, Stephanie, and Lexie with 5 carat diamonds

Prong settings also make the diamond the undeniable focal point of the ring. They lift the stone above the band just enough to give it a presence without overwhelming the design.

Disadvantages of Prong Settings

Hidden Halo Penelope
The Hidden Halo Penelope with a 2 carat Round cut Diamond

While prong-style engagement rings are beloved, thin or delicate prong settings can be more vulnerable to wear. Diamonds set higher on the band can sometimes catch on fabrics or bump into surfaces.

Advantages Disadvantages
Discreet and doesn’t detract from the diamond. Thin settings could break over time.
Allows abundance of light for elevated fire. Highly set diamonds may get caught on material.
Versatile sizes, styles, and shapes. Less-secure settings could loosen over time.
Easy maintenance and cleaning. Requires regular inspection.

Prong Settings by Diamond Shape

Different diamond shapes call for prongs that blend security with style. Round diamonds work with four prongs for extra sparkle or six prongs for a timeless frame. Oval stones pair with claw or double prongs to accentuate their elongated form. Princess cuts rely on V-prongs to protect their corners.

How to Choose the Right Prong Setting

Kamellie Oval Rings
The Pave Kamellie and The Low Profile Kamellie with 4 carat Oval Diamonds

When selecting a prong setting, think about your personal style and security. If you love delicate details, consider claw or four-prong settings. If you prefer something bold or want extra protection, six-prong or double prong settings offer structure. Security is key; a well-set prong holds the diamond firmly in place.

Is a Prong Setting Your Perfect Match?

Yellow Gold Rings
The Lia, The Adelle, and The Penelope in Yellow Gold

Prong settings suit those who want to put the diamond front and center. They are a go-to for showcasing brilliance, whether for everyday wear or special occasions.

Elegant. Secure. Timeless.

Prong settings have earned their reputation as one of the most elegant and enduring choices for engagement rings. Their ability to showcase the diamond’s brilliance while maintaining a lightweight, classic look makes them a favorite across generations. Whether you love the minimalism of four prongs or the sculptural detail of double prongs, there’s a style that’s perfect for you.